Set out about 09h00 and drive along the N1, don’t go through the Heugonaut Tunnel but drive over the Du Toits Kloof Pass, much more scenic! Be prepared to take plenty of photographs of the mountains and the valley overlooking Paarl, the two domes and the very attractive bridge leading to the tunnel.
The pass Du Toit’s Kloof pass is really much more interesting than the tunnel although Joshua Joubert built a road through the kloof in 1738 as a private road Du Toit’s Kloof pass as it is today was only finished in 1949. It rises some 823m and then descends into the Du Toit’s Kloof, and what a splendid drive it is. The old road meets the tunnel road at the bottom of the valley next to the Moolinars River and Du Toits Kloof Lodge.
As you drive through the kloof the mountains gradually get lower and the vineyards and fruit farms get bigger.
Along the Ni we turn off to the left just before Worster along the R43 until you join up to the r303 which runs alongside the Dwars River you can then drive up the Mostertshoek Pass built in 1765 and replaced by Mitchell’s pass in 1848. Stop and admire the view, there are a number of picnic and viewing sights along the pass, unfortunately probable due to baboons they are not kept as tidy as they should be. Looking down on the Dwars River you will see the old railway line used in the days of steam trains. Some cuttings were formed through the rocks, what a wonder train journey that must have been!
Return down the pass and you will come to the original Tollhouse, used to extract tolls from wagons using the pass. It is now used as a restaurant staff by very friendly waitresses a very suitable place to have a South African meal accompanied by wonder views of the mountains, and complete with large oak trees.
After lunch continue the journey on the r46 to Tulbagh where you will find Kerk Street now called Chris Hani Street. All along this fine street are historic houses old schools and churches.
House no 22 is the museum was built in 1803 the first postmaster lived here the outbuilding at the back was probably the first post office in Tulbagh.
House no 12 Readers Restaurant and Curious Cat this house was granted by Governor Ryk Tulbagh to Dr Nicolaas Fuchs a surgeon. This is the first house built in Church Street between the parsonage and the old Church in 1754. The house stands at an angle with Church Street because at that time the street did not exist. It was taken over by the church for the reader (of scriptures) in 1756 for the comfort of the congregation. The house was used as a school for over 100 years until 1860. It is believed that Danie Theron the famous Anglo Boar war scout was born in this house.
House 42 in 1843 a rift occurred in the Tulbagh Congregation and a number of church members broke away to establish their own congregation on a farm outside town. They were unhappy with the minister who they considered to be too strict. The newly formed congregation brought this house for their new minister in1874.
Forty’s No 40 this house was built for the widow Magtheld Smith, the daughter of a freed slave, shortly after 1795. The house was twice used as a doctor’s consulting rooms. The house could not be completely restored after the earthquake. But the front of the house was rebuilt using a photograph from 1861.
The English free school was opened in 1822 in the outbuildings of house No 32. The government paid the owner 25pence per month in rental for the school premises the school closed in 1837.
Plum Restaurant. This house was built in 1880’s and was occupied for 30 years by Willem Witsche, who provided vegetables and milk from his garden across the street. His garden is now the site of the school sports field.
DE Oude Herberg No 6 (The Old Inn) was built in 1860 and became the first boarding house in Tulbagh in 1885.
Across the road is Paddagang Restaurant and wine house. Paddagang means frogs crossing, frogs migrate across the drive.
House No 25 Built in 1814 it is an example of what a “Modern’ house looked like at the turn of the 19th centaury. Charles Theron owned this property between 1849 and 1863. He was described as the “proprietor of the lock up house” in Tulbagh as he rented out one of the outbuildings to the authorities for a jail. He also had a smithy attached to the house and had the property insured against fire. Probably one of the very first owners with insurance@!
Having visited all the houses in Church Street, not all listed here. We return to Cape Town on the R44 past the very large Voelvlei dam and over the interesting Nieuwekloof Pass this pass replaced the original Oudekloof Pass.
A very nice Sunday trip.






























The First in Series on South Africa’s Famous Passes
December 25, 2009 by Bryan Chitty
The Swartberge Pass.
The Mighty Swartberg Pass
Carriages on the Pass circa 1880
This is the king of passes in the Cape. The Swartberge pass also known as the Zwartberg Pass and The Great Zwarte Pass is situated between Prince Albert and Oudtshoorn. This was the masterpiece of that remarkable and brilliant engineer and road builder, Thomas Charles Bain (1830 – 1893). This is also the last of the seventeen passes he built in the Cape Province.
The Eerstewater today
On entering the gorge from the Prince Alfred side, one is overwhelmed by a feeling of insignificance as one travels between towering, rugged, sheer cliffs. An ice-cold mountain stream greets the traveller at Eerste Water (First Water) – Bain’s camp was situated there. In later years it became known as Die Danssbaan (dance floor), as many young people came from afar to waltz under the stars. As the road snakes higher and higher, around hairpin bends, one becomes aware of the crisp, clear air filled with the scent of Proteas.
Modern Images at the start of the pass
From the summit at “Die Top” the view is breath taking.
A spectacular zig-zag in the Pass- an irressistible subject for photographers for over 100 year- This photo dates from 1910
Work was started by a John Tassie in 1881 but after 13 months of heavy work using 100 Mozambicans from Delagoa Bay he had advanced only 6 kilometres. Tassie was declared insolvent and work ceased until Thomas Bain took over in November 1883, using 200 to 240 convicts, using picks, shovels, sledgehammers, and gunpowder. Boulders were spilt using fire to heat the rocks and then doused in cold water. The smaller rocks were carefully dressed by the convicts and used to build impressive retaining walls that support the road against precipitous slopes. A century later travellers still marvel at this feat.
The Swartberge Pass is the last of the great passes built in the nineteenth centaury and is of great historical interest. Originally the routes through Meiringspoort and Seweweekspoort were the only link between the port of Mossel Bay and the towns and villages of the Great Karoo. The road through Meiringspoort was constructed by Adam de Smidt and was officially opened on the 4th March 1858. These routes were frequently closed due to flood damage and rock falls. Heavy flooding during 1875 closed both roads for weeks.
Looking down from close to Die Top
Bad weather made construction difficult. A group of convicts died when the roof of their hut collapsed during a snow storm. During May 1885 heavy rain caused mudslides, which almost destroyed the convict camp and severely damaged the nearly complete road. The same rains washed away the road through Meiringspoort.
Two dates can be seen chiselled into the rocks in the Pass: 1884 was chiselled into a large boulder near Fonteintjie on the Prince Albert side near Die Top of the pass. In the high retaining wall near Boegoekloof on the Oudtshoorn side of the mountain you can see the date 1886. More than thirty curves and drifts in the Swartberge Pass have been named and each has its own interesting history.
The Oudtshoorn Courant of the 16th September 1886 published this telegram: The Zwartberg Pass is now open to Wagons on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays – the Government taking no responsibility. On the 5th May 1888 a notice was given of a toll to be imposed at the summit of the pass. A toll fee of four pence per wheel and one penny per animal. The toll official was responsible for collecting the toll and maintaining the road.
Dry stone walling from the original construction
In 1879 Bain estimated that the pass would cost 20 000 pounds on the 14th July 1887 Bain reported that the total construction cost was 14 000 pounds.
A cape Cart at the clear stream at Eerstwater. 1890. Today there is a low water bridge across the stream.
Over six hundred plants have been identified in the Swartberge Nature Reserve. A large, colourful variety of Proteas, tolbosse, pincushions, Ericas and shrubs can be seen. Klipspringer, Vaalribbuck, duikers, baboons and dassies and more than 130 bird species have been recorded.
There are signboards placed along the road through the pass the following signs can be seen from north to south.
Droewaterval no water running at this time
TEEBERG (tea Mountain) Here you find the well known honey tea bush, much sought after by earlier inhabitants, From this point the summit of the pass is visible and if you look down into the chasm you should recognise Malvadraai far below. The view across the Karro plains to the Nuweveld Mountains 120 kms away is spectacular
Map of The Swartberg pass
Sources and Biblography
Helen Marincowitz The Swartberg Pass
Graham Ross The Romance of Cape Passes
T.V.Bulpin Discovering South Africa
Some images Courtesy of Fransie Pienaar Museum, Prince Albert
Posted in 4x4, Commentary, Tours | Tagged 4x4, Discovery, South Africa, Off-Road, Flowers, Mountain Pass, Swartberg, Die Hel, Prince Albert, Adventure Tourism, Conservation, Oudtshoorn, Thomas Charles Bain, Cape Province., Mossel Bay, Great Karoo | Leave a Comment »